An aubergine that has been cooked properly is soft, savoury and almost creamy inside. An undercooked one tastes spongy and unpleasantly chewy. That difference explains why some people think they hate aubergines: they may simply have eaten ones that were barely cooked through.
Called eggplant in America, this versatile vegetable works roasted, pan-fried, grilled and simmered in stews. The trick is to choose the method for the dish and give the flesh time to become tender without flooding it with oil.
Choose an aubergine in good condition
Look for firm glossy skin and a fresh-looking stem. A few minor surface marks are acceptable, but extensive softness, shrivelling or wet bruises are reasons to leave the fruit in the shop.
Larger globe aubergines make broad slices for roasting. Long slender varieties are convenient for quick cooking and stir-fries. Because the shapes differ, cooking times differ too.
Wash the aubergine under running water, dry it and trim the stem. Most common varieties have edible skin that helps pieces retain their shape while cooking.
Decide whether to peel or salt it
Peeling is optional for most recipes. The skin softens with cooking and gives contrast to the pale flesh. If you are making an extremely smooth purée, you can roast the whole fruit and scoop out the flesh.
Older recipes often insist that every aubergine must be salted to remove bitterness. Modern commercial varieties are frequently mild, so that step is not always necessary. Salting can still help control moisture and oil absorption, particularly when frying.
If you choose to salt, sprinkle cut pieces lightly, leave them in a colander for a short rest and pat dry. Adjust the recipe's remaining salt. Do not assume that a salt bath can make rotten or excessively mature aubergine good.
Roast it in the oven
Heat the oven to roughly 220°C conventional or 200°C fan for a simple tray roast. Cut the aubergine into large cubes or thick slices and coat sparingly but evenly with olive oil, salt and pepper.
Spread pieces on a baking tray with room between them. Roast for about 20–30 minutes as a starting range, turning when useful. Look for browned edges and flesh that collapses easily under a fork.
Aubergine absorbs oil readily. Rather than repeatedly pouring oil onto a dry-looking surface, allow the pieces to cook and soften; they can look matte during roasting and still become delicious.
Pan-fry slices without soaking up a bottle of oil
Use a non-stick or well-seasoned pan and cook slices in batches. Cut them to a relatively even thickness and begin with a moderate amount of oil in a warm pan.
Let the slices colour before turning. If they stick, allow a little more cooking rather than tearing them off the surface. You want an evenly soft centre, not just a brown exterior.
Very thick slices may brown too quickly outside, so reduce the heat or finish them covered briefly to soften. A bit of added water can help tenderise in some dishes, but remember that it changes frying to steaming.
Grill for a smoky edge
Cut the aubergine lengthways into slices about 1cm thick, brush lightly with oil and cook on a hot grill or griddle. Turn when clear grill marks appear and keep cooking until the middle is tender.
The classic mistake is taking it off as soon as attractive stripes form. A charred surface can hide pale firm flesh. Test the thickest part with the tip of a knife.
Finish with lemon, mint, garlic yoghurt or a little tahini dressing. Grilled aubergine makes a useful base for sandwiches, salads and mezze platters.
Cook a whole aubergine for a dip
Pierce the skin of a whole aubergine in several places, following the recipe, and roast on a suitable tray until completely soft and collapsed. Some cooks char it under a grill or over a flame to develop smoke, but direct flame requires particular care and appropriate equipment.
Let it cool enough to handle. Split it and scoop the cooked flesh from the skin. Drain excessive liquid if necessary, then mash with tahini, lemon, garlic and seasoning for a simple baba ganoush-style dip.
Do not blend it until smooth unless that is the texture you want. Leaving a few soft pieces gives a pleasing rustic character. Cooked aubergine should not remain tough or rubbery.
Simmer in sauces and curries
Aubergine works beautifully in tomato sauce because the flesh absorbs flavour as it softens. Brown cubes first if you want a fuller roasted note, then simmer in sauce until tender.
For a curry, large chunks hold their shape better than finely chopped pieces. If using coconut milk or tomato, cook gently enough to avoid scorching the sauce while the aubergine finishes.
Aubergine is ready when a fork passes through with little resistance. There is no benefit to retaining a raw, spongy middle for 'bite' in most dishes.
Avoid bitter or greasy results
Bitterness can reflect variety, maturity and preparation. Choose fresh fruit with relatively undeveloped seeds; if a recipe calls for salting, follow it.
Greasy results often come from cooking porous pieces in a deep pool of oil. Lightly coating and roasting, or using batches in a good frying pan, offers more control than topping up constantly.
If your aubergine releases water into a stew, allow time for the sauce to reduce gently. Do not attempt to correct everything by adding flour or extra salt at once.
How long should aubergine cook?
There is no exact time covering every size and method. Thin grilled slices may be ready in minutes per side. Thick oven-roasted chunks can need half an hour or longer, while whole aubergines take substantially more time.
Judge the result by tenderness. If the centre is still pale, springy and difficult to pierce, carry on cooking. If it is collapsing and pleasantly silky, stop before it loses all structure unless you are making a purée.
The oven temperature and pan thickness matter. Learn how your equipment browns vegetables rather than treating a single online number as a guarantee.
Store and reheat cooked aubergine
Cool leftovers promptly and refrigerate in a clean covered container. The Food Standards Agency advises that leftovers should be chilled within two hours, used within 48 hours or frozen if you will not use them in that time.
Reheat until steaming hot throughout. Roasted aubergine is excellent added to a tomato pasta sauce; fried slices can be reheated in an oven to recover some surface texture.
Aubergine is forgiving once you stop undercooking it. Give the pieces space to colour, check the middle and use enough time for the flesh to become soft. That is the difference between sponge and silk.