Mushrooms can be one of the best ingredients in a frying pan: golden edges, deep savoury flavour and a meaty bite. Or they can turn into pale slippery pieces sitting in grey water. The difference is usually the size of the pan, how much mushroom you put into it and whether the released moisture gets a chance to evaporate.
You can use the same principles for button, chestnut and portobello mushrooms, adjusting the cut and timing. The goal is to cook them through, encourage browning and add delicate flavourings at the right moment.
Begin with fresh edible mushrooms
Buy mushrooms from a reputable food supplier. Look for relatively firm caps without extensive slime, mould or bad odours. Different edible varieties have different textures and colours, so use the product label.
Never cook and eat wild mushrooms merely because they resemble a supermarket variety. Identification mistakes can be extremely dangerous, and home cooking does not reliably neutralise mushroom toxins.
If a pack has collected condensation, inspect its contents before using. A little surface dampness is common; slimy collapse and an unpleasant smell are reasons to discard.
Clean without waterlogging them
Brush away loose soil with a soft brush or wipe with damp kitchen paper. If they are dirty, a quick rinse under running water is fine, followed by immediate drying with a clean towel.
Do not leave mushrooms soaking in a bowl for ages. You want as little unnecessary moisture as possible when frying for brown edges.
Trim dry or tough stem ends. Many cultivated mushroom stems are edible, including those on button mushrooms. Portobello stems may be firmer, so chop them small or use them in a sauce.
Cut according to the meal
Quarter small chestnut mushrooms for a hearty breakfast. Slice button mushrooms for sauce or a sandwich. Large portobellos can be cooked whole or in thick strips.
Smaller pieces cook faster and expose more surface area. Very thin slices can shrink dramatically, while large chunks take longer to become tender.
Try to keep the pieces roughly equal. A pan of finely diced and whole large mushrooms will not finish evenly unless you deliberately cook in stages.
Choose a wide frying pan
Mushrooms release plenty of water as they heat. A wide pan gives that moisture room to evaporate. A narrow saucepan or overloaded wok can trap the liquid and keep the pieces pale.
Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add a little oil or butter according to the recipe, or begin in a dry pan if using a method designed to drive off moisture first.
Add the mushrooms in a single layer. If you have a large amount, cook two batches rather than heaping everything in at once.
Leave them alone long enough to brown
Once the first side touches the hot pan, give it time to colour before stirring. Constantly moving mushrooms can prevent a good crust from forming.
After a few minutes, turn the pieces and allow other sides to brown. If they release liquid, keep cooking until much of it evaporates. Browning becomes easier once the pan is no longer full of moisture.
Cooking times depend on cut, size and variety. Use golden surfaces, reduced moisture and tender centres as the signal rather than fixing on one exact minute.
When to add salt, butter and garlic
For straightforward browning, adding salt towards the end can help avoid drawing extra moisture out early, although some recipes salt from the beginning deliberately. Either can work if you manage the pan's liquid.
Butter contributes excellent flavour but can burn at excessive heat. You may start with a little oil and add butter later, or lower the heat before stirring in butter and finely chopped garlic.
Garlic needs much less cooking than mushrooms. Add it near the end and stir until fragrant, preventing small pieces from blackening on the hot pan.
How to roast mushrooms in the oven
For hands-off cooking, toss halved or whole suitable mushrooms with a little oil and seasoning and spread them on a tray. A moderately hot oven helps the moisture evaporate and the surface brown.
Check and turn halfway where useful. Large portobello caps may release a puddle of liquid; pour off excess carefully if the recipe calls for a dry roasted texture.
Oven mushrooms are ideal with thyme, black pepper and garlic added at a suitable stage. Keep a little space between pieces rather than trapping steam beneath a crowded pile.
Cooking mushrooms for a sauce
When making a creamy mushroom sauce, fry the mushrooms first to build flavour. Once browned, lower the heat and add onion, garlic, stock or cream according to the recipe.
Simmer to the desired thickness. Adding liquid too early can leave the mushroom flavour weak because they have mainly boiled rather than browned.
Use a clean spoon to taste the sauce. Season carefully if stock or hard cheese is already salty. A small squeeze of lemon can brighten a rich creamy sauce.
Different mushroom types
Button mushrooms are mild and versatile. Chestnut mushrooms often have a slightly deeper savoury flavour. Large portobellos hold up well as thick slices or grilled caps.
Shiitake mushrooms have a distinctive aroma; remove tough stems when necessary. Oyster mushrooms have delicate layered flesh and can brown quickly in a hot pan.
Follow specific preparation instructions for specialty mushrooms, especially if they are not ordinarily eaten raw. The method for one variety should not automatically be applied to all fungi.
Why they sometimes turn rubbery
Mushrooms become disappointing when cooked for too long over weak heat in a crowded pan. Excess moisture accumulates and their texture can become slippery rather than nicely browned.
Alternatively, slices left over fierce heat after all their moisture has vanished may shrink into tough dark pieces. Stop once you have the level of browning and tenderness you want.
A few drops of liquid on the plate are normal. What you want to avoid is a full cup of watery liquid trapped in the pan when serving.
Food safety and leftovers
Store fresh mushrooms appropriately chilled and use them while sound. Wash hands and tools before preparation, particularly after handling raw meat.
Cool cooked leftovers promptly, refrigerate and reheat thoroughly if serving hot. Do not leave a creamy mushroom sauce at room temperature for hours.
The easiest reliable method is a wide hot pan, reasonably dry mushrooms, small batches and a bit of patience before stirring. Once you see the moisture evaporate and the edges colour, the whole process makes sense.